Libro degli ospiti
The name of this country house translates to “Refuge of the Gods” and after two nights with Anna and her sons Davide and Simone we understand why. Located high, and we do mean high - like 380 stairs above the main road high - above and a bit to the south of Positano, this spot is heaven-on-earth.
We arrived by bus from Sorrento, but it wasn’t as easy as it might sound. Davide had told us to tell the bus driver to stop at “Arienzo”, a request we made of the driver at least twice. Arienzo is the first stop past Positano and is right where the stairs to Rifugio degli dei begin. A simple enough request, but not one taken to heart by the driver. He blew right past the stop and by the time we realized where we were, or more importantly, where were not, we had to have him stop so we could unload our bags and wait for a bus going back the 10 km or so by which we had overshot our destination.
By the time we finally arrived at Arienzo Davide had grown concerned about our not arriving as planned. So he was on the look-out for us and found us, gathered us up, put our bags on the lift and led us on the long trek to the house. By the time we arrived we were hot, tired and sweaty. Fortunately, Anna had prepared a pitcher of lemonade and a plate of chilled figs - all from homegrown produce.
After settling in, we decided to walk back down the 380 stairs and add another 270 stairs from the road to the Arienzo beach. Our 650 stair trek was rewarded by a fine lunch at the beach café followed by a nap on the beach. We then took the water taxi to Positano center, shopped for dinner and took the local bus back to the stairs to the house. The next day we found that the walk from Positano to the stairs is an easy 15-20 minute stroll. But be alert to the traffic on the road.
Our “room” was actually an apartment, with living room and fully-outfitted kitchenette, separate bedroom and bathroom with a huge shower and bidet. The views from the living room and the little terrace leading to the apartment were spectacular.
The breakfasts were scrumptious. Over the course of our two day stay we enjoyed juice, coffee, croissants, muffins, fresh fruit (melon, kiwis, figs, grapes, persimmon), bacon and eggs, toast, and yogurt pie with chocolate chips. And marmalade, for which Anna is renowned - cherry, fig, apricot and orange. Absolutely delicious.
Son Davide is the English-speaking point-man for the operation and is a delightful young man. He was very helpful in every sense and even had bus tickets to Sorrento for us to buy when it became apparent that the ferries would not run because of high seas. Son Simone, counting down the waning days of summer vacation before going back to school, was helpful, as well. When we arrived he threw one of our (heavy) suitcases (transported on the lift) up on his shoulder and packed it to our door. He gave us a short tour of the area around the house, introducing us to Bruno the sheep, as well as the goats, the turkey, the rabbits and the pigs. And when we left he was with us at the bottom to get our bags off the lift and ready to drag off to the bus stop.
In sum, we would say that if your are up to the hike up the mountain and you want to experience the warm hospitality of a charming Italian family in their 150 year old farmhouse (totally redone with modern conveniences), you must stay at Rifugio degli dei.
We stayed at Rifugio degli Dei for part of our honeymoon and were thrilled with our choice. We had the most amazing view from our room and were very pleased with the location being just outside of the busier tourist areas. Davide and his family are so helpful and friendly. Our room was more like an apartment and very spacious. Be prepared for the steps, but they didn't do us any harm and the view and accomodation was worth the climb.
thanks for a lovely stay, we hope to return one day.
We LOVED Rifugio degli Dei. It was the highlight of our 6 week trip in Europe and the best accommodation. Spotless clean beautiful apartment with everything you could wish for. The breakfast was a delight sitting on the terrace looking at an amzing view of Positano. The family were so friendly and the delicious cakes, jams and lemoncello were to die for!! Yes the steps are a challenge but the view is worth stopping for a few times anyway!! Davide was so helpful with maps and tickets and advice on where to eat (you must go to the restaurant on the hill!)We didn't want to leave and we hope to 'see you next year" as Simone their young son calls out as you leave!!A wonderful memory of the beautiful Positano
To put it simply, this is probably the most peaceful, delightful place you’ll ever stay on vacation. The entire family is just delightful - very helpful, special people, any yet you always have plenty of private space. The homemade treats are truly special, and the location is divine - truly a Refuge of the Gods. It’s not often these days that you see a family spanning several generations working together in such harmony, and it helps put life back into the perspective it should be. The hike up to the house is well worth the effort; the vistas just get better and better. In fact, we recommend taking one day to continue up the mountain to Nocelle, and then take “Sentiero degli Dei” (Path of the Gods), for an exceptional hiking experience. Out of all the places we were in Italy, this was the only one where 4 nights just wasn’t enough. We’ll definitely be back, and hope to bring our grown kids some day so they also can experience this wonderful Refugio.
What a wonderful end to our Europe trip staying with Davide, Anna and Paulo"s family Country house in Positano. Their reception to us was warm and generous .Situated with stunning views overlooking the town and out to sea towards the Isla of Capri , peaceful yet only a quick stroll to town. Mama spoiled us with her delicious cakes and home made preserves for breakfast. The room was very well appointed with everything we could need, including our own separte sun lounging area in the garden. Many maps and brochures of the area were available to take and useful advice given about buses and ferries.
The steps were typical of everywhere else in Positano and the Amalfi coast and not a detraction for us.
We would have no hesitation in returning or recommending to anyone who wants to stay in this beautiful place.
Other reviewers have said it all. A wonderful family working together to meet all your needs, spectacular setting, tastefully decorated, and a built-in work-out so you don't worry so much about eating all that pasta. More than any other place I have been in Italy, I felt we really had a sample of a different way of living. The least expensive of our accommodations and yet the best of them.
I loved waking up to the sound of the goat's and sheep's bells and the aroma of Anna's baking. Sheila, the charming, energetic dog, accompanied us all the way up the 1500 steps to the town above and saw us off on our 3 hour hike along the coast (don't miss that!). Davide provided lots of useful suggestions for restaurants and activities.
We didn't bother with a car (driving that coast looks daunting-- and we are used to Highway 1 in California). The bus and train provide all you need.
The location might not be for everyone, but we thought it was great--amazing views, peaceful. Admittedly, the walk to and from town and the hike up the stairs (even for those of us used to daily work-outs) can discourage one from coming back to rest before dinner, which can make for a long day. No matter, you can always skip the touring and spend the whole day relaxing on your private terrace.
I wish we could have stayed for more than 4 nights.
Well, we never ever mentioned to the owners that we are travel agents as had private holidays without even thinking on our work. We cooperate with hotels allover the world but traveling to Italy is always special as book only Agriturismo private hotels and pensions. The reason is not our job. This is something else. And Rifugio degli Dei is one of the best example why you have to choose this. First of all you fall into everydays life of a family. Davide's Mama was taking care of us with sweet hospitalty. Second of all this is the way you will be the most well informed about anything you want to know. The house is located 380 stairs from the main road. You have to be in good condition to climb the hill. That is not so easy especialy after a superb dinner down in the village:o) The apartment is excellent and offers very good standard of services. We did not miss anything comparing to a hotel. And in a hotel you can not find lovely garden with fruits where the owners make own Limoncello, marmelade, homemade cakes, croissans or whatever. The view is simple the best. Eating your breakfast just enjoy that lovely panorama of Positano and the sea. I think it is important to say that we recommend to book this accommodation with booking a private car as well. There are so many other nice places to see not far from Positano (Amalfi, Sorrento, Salerno, Napoli, Pompeji, Paestum, Capri) but you can be flexible only with a car. If you want to spend some days in a lovely little village with a very very friendly family, making hiking tours or enjoying the sea, then Rifugo degli Dei is also recommended. But please do not book if you are not interested in something really special and human.
Unfortunately we had just three days to stay at the Refugio. Nevertheless, the staff was so friendly and made us feel cozy and free at the same time.
The apartments are well furnished with a good taste and Mamma Anna is a cleaning- and baking-goddess. You can ask for advice and leisure-tips, they know everything by heart.
Our little daughter enjoyed herself so much being there, she was shown all the animals, so the parents had enough time to relax themselves.
Anyway - an excellent spot. Would definetely choose it again! Five stars from me!!
My husband and I stayed here on our Honeymoon for 7 nights. When we arrived Davide accompanied us up the stairs at a relaxed pace, stopping every couple of minutes to continue chatting and to take in the view. The walk up to the country house takes about 10 minutes and as it is all up steps it's important to take it easy and stop regularly. When we arrived up the top, Davide's mother Anna greeted us with a nice cool class of water and some lemon cake. Meanwhile Mauro had loaded our luggage onto a cable lift so our luggage had reached the top before we did. As we sat on the terrace enjoying our cool drink and taking in the beautiful view, we were introduced to the family dog Sheila - she was a lovely playful little thing. Our apartment was fantastic and larger than what we had imagined. The kitchenette was stocked with a great mini bar (including the family's own Limoncello which I devoured) and their prices were very reasonable. Once we settled in we spent the remainder of our first day relaxing on our grassed terrace, soaking up the sun and sipping Campari soda. Throughout our 7 night stay we also met the other family members Paulo (a charmer), Simone (the youngest of the 4 brothers) and the father of the family. The family we're very generous, they gave us fresh vegetables from the garden and took time to walk us around the farm - introducing us to the various animals along the way. Anna did a load of washing for us one day and our clothes came back smelling so good and neatly folded into "his" and "her" piles. Overall we had a delightful stay and at 490 Euros for 7 nights it was such great value. Climbing the stairs each day worked a charm for keeping our weight down, especially after all the delicious meals we enjoyed during our stay.
Very nice bed & breakfast lying at an amazing part of the Amalfi coast, just outside Positano. The appartment is very complete, in a nice coordinated style. Private terras for each appartment. Everything is very clean.
The service is very friendly and helpfull. At breakfast a lot of homemaid products, each morning homemaid cake.
To get there you walk many steps but the view and the atmosphere make it all worthwile.
We had a great week in Positano.
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